On a recent episode of Roland Martin Unfiltered, Roland sat down with Lanny Smith, founder of Actively Black, to unpack the double standard facing Black-owned businesses in the fashion industry.
The conversation was sparked by Ralph Lauren’s new collections–one celebrating the legacy of Morehouse and Spelman Colleges, and another inspired by the history of Black vacationers in Martha’s Vineyard. While many applauded the recognition of Black culture, Roland and Smith raised critical questions: Who really benefits? With Ralph Lauren’s $7 billion annual revenue, its pledge of $2 million to HBCUs over five years amounts to little more than a token gesture.
Smith contrasted this with the scrutiny Actively Black faces. When his athleisure brand prices a shirt at $60, customers often complain about the cost–yet the same buyers spend hundreds of dollars on Nike or Ralph Lauren without hesitation. He pointed out that Black-owned businesses are routinely measured against billion-dollar corporations with decades of infrastructure, but are rarely given the time, support, or patience to grow in the same way.
Actively Black is intentionally different. Smith has kept the supply chain rooted in the Black community, sourcing premium cotton from Black farmers to sustain livelihoods “from dirt to shirt.”
For Smith, the brand is about more than clothing. It’s about reprogramming how Black consumers view value, status, and culture. Luxury, he argued, isn’t found in a label. It comes from the culture that drives trends globally–and Black communities have always been that creative engine.
The takeaway from the interview was clear: If Black America spends $30 billion annually on apparel, those dollars should circulate back into Black communities through brands like Actively Black–companies that not only celebrate culture, but sustain it.
Learn more about Actively Black at activelyblack.com.